Great effective brake to us on small to medium size hills. Great for stop signs as well as controlling speed on larger hills. This brake is really light, strong, effective, and easy to retrofit on your current rollerskis. To engage, put braking foot forward and have your weight shifted back so you are stable, and then pull up on the pull handle. Practice braking on the flats first. Wear is rather light on the brake under average use which should allow you to get probably 5K miles of use before needing to replace the brake.
Note: When installing we ship it with 2 lock washers, which one goes between the forks and brake on each side to keep it in the upright position. Replace the lock washers every time you remove the brake or remove that wheel. Just ask for them when you buy replacement wheels.
The brake for existing 45 mm axles adds just 52 grams (excludes weight of cord, handle, and waist belt) to the rollerski which isn't enough to create any noticeable tail drop.
The skinniest for Pursuit Fork Flex ships with 50 mm axle. The version for most straight frames which have 45 mm axles ships with 55 mm axle. The Marwe 610 version ships with 55 mm axle, and the version for Marwe 620, Rullas, IDT, and Swenor Skate Elite ship with 60 mm axle bolt. Bolt lengths are from under the head to opposite end, and not overall length. Essentially need an axle bolt that is 10 mm longer than existing axle bolt. We include a new axle bolt with the brake.
Braking Installation and Safety
1. Remove one of your axle bolts as you’ll be using the longer bolt that we ship to hold the brake on.
2. Put the brake arms over the outside of the forks with the spring on the back side.
3. Place a lock washer included on each side between the forks and brake arms. These are important as the lock washers prevent rotation of the brake. Put the axle bolt through and adjust for its vertical positioning by having it clear the top of the wheel. Tighten axle firmly.
4. To adjust for skier’s height, the bungee section above the pull handle can be adjusted by sliding more or less through the cord lock and you can cut off the extra once you get a feel for how much length you need. The cord should be snug. You can detach it from the waist belt and attach to a water bottle holder as well. No need to retie any knots for installation.
5. You can also adjust the braking power some by bending the round profile of the brake lever to grip the wheel more or less by using a pliers. The way it is shipping is for good braking power on hills, but if you feel it’s too much grip at lower speeds you can bend out both sides of the lever some to give it a flatter profile (depending if it’s used on new or used wheels affects this also). By flattening the profile it’ll be smoother at low speeds but not as powerful on steeper hills.
6. Check before rollerskiing to make sure everything is operational and nothing tangled, and that the connection to the brake level looks secure with no fraying or loosening. Heat build up on medium size hills is ok but extensive long hills could create a lot of heat buildup, so we advise avoiding huge hills or using in the mountains. The way we tie the knot on the brake lever through a metal ring first and then loop the end through two more times is done to prevent heat build up from affecting the connection and secondly to prevent vibration. Be aware braking power is reduced in wet conditions.